Friday, April 10, 2020

That slaw with the mangos and the nuts

This slaw is based on a recipe from Yotam Ottolenghi's book "Plenty." The original name was "Sweet winter slaw," but I find it so inadequate to describe the spicy, sweet, tangy, full-flavored nature of this slaw that I refuse to describe it as that.

The original recipe was wonderful of course, Ottolenghi is known for flavor, but called for several ingredients that I rarely have on hand, and the method was fussy.

The more times I made it the more I found myself gravitating towards readily available ingredients, simplifying the method (lemongrass? who has lemongrass on hand. Is simmering the sauce strictly necessary?), and making it a strict rule that the candied nuts were to be served on the side and added only right before eating to keep them crisp.

I've included some ingredient substitution notes designated as "SAH options". With many of us in "Stay At Home" orders because of the ongoing pandemic and extending time between grocery trips, I hope this is helpful.

As with most slaws, I find this slaw is best consumed at least 12 hours after assembling (except for the nuts!) and stays delicious for at least three days (the maximum amount of time that it's ever sat around here).

The slaw is pictured on the bottom left hand corner. 


"That Slaw"

Ingredients with a (*) have a SAH option. Scroll to the bottom to see my recommendations. 

If you are an overachiever, skip down to the slicing-the-cabbage-step and put your prepared cabbage in a bowl with a pinch or two of salt and let moisture drain while you prepare the other ingredients. I don't find it absolutely necessary for this dish, but YMMV, so do as you wish. For the rest of us "C" students, continue on with the dressing.

Dressing
Whisk together 6 1/2 tablespoons *lime juice,
3 tablespoons maple syrup,
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil, 
1/4 teaspoons chili flakes, and
4 tablespoons olive or neutral-tasting oil.
Set aside while you prepare the rest of the salad.

Candy some nuts
This is super simple, but is going to take your full attention for the moment so shut off whatever ADHD squirrel is chattering around in your brain and focus.
1 1/2 cups of *raw nuts, your choice. Put them in a fry pan over medium heat and stir them occasionally until lightly roasted.
Add 2 teaspoons of butter and melt.
After it melts add  2 teaspoons of white granulated sugar, 
1/2 teaspoon of salt, and
1/2 teaspoon of chili flakes.

Or, be like Mel and mis-read the recipe and add 2 TABLESPOONS of butter and sugar, decide you like the extra candy on the nuts and make it that way forever. Your choice: lightly or moderately candied nuts.

Stir constantly with a wooden spoon to coat the nuts as it caramelizes. It will happen fast. Once it does, dump and spread the nuts onto a piece of parchment paper and let cool. Roughly chop.

Start using that knife, but watch your fingers because while there's no good time to go to the hospital, now is especially a bad time.
Thinly slice your choice of 12 oz. cabbage, about half of a standard green or purple round head (I usually use purple. Adding in Napa cabbage is nice but I rarely go to the trouble).
Cut 2 *mangos into strips.
Small dice 1 fresh jalapeƱo (optional).
Roughly chop some herbs. 1/4 cup *fresh mint and 1 1/2 cups of *fresh cilantro should do it.

Combine everything except the nuts in a bowl. Taste for salt and adjust to taste. Serve with nuts on the side for sprinkling.

*SAH Options

  • Lime juice: I've successfully substituted lemon juice for limes. In a pinch I bet any vinegar, especially white or red wine vinegar would work. 
  • Raw nuts: If you are using already roasted nuts, you just want to warm them up a bit and not actually toast them in the skillet. Otherwise they might burn. Also, roasted nuts are usually also salted, so be careful when you add salt to the nuts - it might not be needed. 
  • Mangos: I bet a can or two of rinsed mandarins would go really well if mangos aren't available. Or use pickled kumquats
  • The fresh herbs: If you have them use them. Whatever fresh herbs you have would go well - basil, parsley, etc. If you don't have fresh herbs, don't worry about it. The slaw will still be delicious. 





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